In this case, we want to create more space between the puzzles pieces because of the nature of the geometry. In the last video (part one), we used a zero tolerance between the fingers. This way all material can be removed halfway through the wood, so everything will be able to marry itself very easily into the other portion. After both are generated, we’re going to only pocket the first piece halfway through the wood, the other will be halfway through the other side. From here we create two pieces from the first one. Now the joint looks like it will be usable and does not go outside of the boundary.
The piece also looks brittle like it could break easily, so we need to increase the radius of the curves. Once completed, we can see there is a little bit of a room, and the end mill would have to get through the area, cut out, and then leave material behind. Once the design has been prepped, the corners need to be rounded for the size of the bit (1/8th inch). We place the lines inside to make sure we know where our boundaries are. There are a lot of designs that can be created to add attractive features to the corner of the wood. If you draw the lines you will see that the joint crosses a boundary you don’t want it to. However, there are a couple problems with this joint. In the video we’re using ¼” so you’d need to make the radius of all the corners 1/8" of an inch. From here you’d need to consider the size of bit you will be using. With the regular type of joint, you’d be able to lock it in place, but not tear it apart. This is further illustrated in the video.
You want to make sure there are enough corners around that allowed it to be locked in place. For a more complex type of joint, we just want to take a line and move it around and meet back at the other corner. First we make the design a bit longer (offset by four) so it looks like a frame, and mirrored at a right angle. We start out with four inch pieces of wood, just like last time, but in a flat arrangement. You need to ensure your spoilboard is perfectly flat and surfaced, and your half depths are exact. The goal will be to create a more complex joint than in the previous video where we made a simple finger joint.įirst take into consideration the following: the amount of material will matter due to vibrations and beware of a sawtooth issue. In this Instructable we will summarize some of the points in the video clip shown above.
This is the second part in a tutorial about fashioning joints using a CNC machine. Software: AutoCAD (Design), CAMBAM (Machine tools), Mach3 (Post processor) Material: 3/4" sheet stock MDO (Medium Density Overlay), four inch pieces of wood in a flat arrangement
#Cambam pocket start point how to
This is part two of our tutorial series entitled "Practical CNC Joinery." In part two of the series we will be discussing how to create complex jigsaw miter flat joints.
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